Straight draw in poker - what it is, types, probabilities of gain and principles of the game

Translated with the help of AI. We apologize for any errors and would appreciate your help in correcting them.

Translated by order of the educational portal university.poker
Author: Nathan Williams, original source: blackrain79.com

Drawing draws in no-limit hold 'em can be tricky, and straight draw is no exception. Many players have difficulty getting a straight draw: they either chase a draw that doesn't close very often, or they have trouble paying when they manage to collect their draw. If you are having trouble playing straight draw in poker, then this article is for you. This article will tell you everything you need to know about playing straight draw, what mistakes to avoid, and how to make as much money as possible with straight draw. Let's discuss this right now.

1. How often does Texas Hold 'em straight pick up

To understand how profitable it is to play a straight draw in poker, first of all it is useful to know how often you will collect straight in no-limit hold 'em. It is important to understand that different pocket cards can make up a straight in different ways.

• For example: Connectors from to can form a straight in four different ways.

If you were handed out, here are the boards that give you the straight:

Now let's look at a hand with one gapper, such as She can give a straight in three different ways: 

A double gap, such as, can only be two straight: 

A triple hepper can make up only one straight combination: 

The conclusion is quite obvious: connectors are stronger than gapers because they cling to the board in more ways, which means they will produce straights more often. The larger the gap between the cards, the weaker they are. It also goes without saying that suited cards are stronger than their offsuited counterparts. Of course, there is also the option to assemble a straight with one pocket card.

Example of an open straight draw

You were given:	On the table:

But within the framework of this article, we will stick to the straight draw, which includes both of your pocket cards. A little bad news: the probability of collecting a straight is already right on the flop in no-limit Texas Hold 'em with a connector arm from to 
is only 1.3%, or 1 in 76. The chances of collecting a straight on a flop on a hand with a hepper are even less:

On the flop:	%
Chance to assemble a single-hepper straight on the flop. For example, or	0.98%
The probability of assembling a straight with two heppers on the flop. Such as or At the same time, despite the fact that you will not often get a straight on the flop, your chance to get a draw on the flop will be much higher	0.64%
The probability of assembling a straight draw with a connector arm on the flop.   From to	9.71%

Not very good, but still almost 8 times more likely than the straight on the flop. This way, obviously, you won't want to play any connector hand hoping to collect a straight, because you won't collect it as often as you are handed it out to justify such a game. Suited connectors are stronger than their offsuited counterparts because they give you more opportunities to cling to the board.

2. Types of straight draw in poker

There are different types of straight draw, depending on the number of outs you have to complete them.  An outs is a card that you need to complete a specific hand combination (in this case a straight). The more outs you have, the stronger your draw. Depending on the number of outs, you may have an internal straight draw (gutshot) with 4 outs or an open straight draw with 8 outs. There is also a double gatshot street draw with 8 outs (it is also called a double belly buster).

Example of an internal straight draw: 

Our hand:	Flop:

Example of an open straight draw: 

Our hand:	Flop:

Example of a double internal straight draw:

Our hand:	Flop:

Of course, you can also have a straight draw with one pocket card.

Our hand:	Flop:
	, and so on.

Similarly, there are situations where one of your face-down cards is “canceled” by the board.

Our hand:	Flop:

• Probability of calling open straight draw: 31.5% (or coefficient 1:2.2)
• Probability of calling internal straight draw: 16.5% (or coefficient 1:5.1)

Pro tip: Instead of memorizing numbers, you can use the so-called rule of four to quickly calculate the percentage probability that your draw will close.

RULE OF FOUR: just multiply the number of outs you have by 4.

• For example: If you have an open straight draw, multiply 8 x 4 = 32%.

1. The more outs you have, the less accurate this rule is (the chance of winning increases) and vice versa (if outs of a certain suit on the straight do not suit you).
2. If you just want to calculate the probability of calling a street on one subsequent street, use the rule of two: multiply the number of outs by 2.
3. Remembering (or calculating) the equity of your hand is important because it tells you whether you can continue to profitably play the hand.

You need to compare the equity of your call hand with the pot odds. If you get favorable pot odds, you can continue to play the hand for a profit. The odds of a pot are the ratio between the size of the pot and the price of the call.

• For example: If the pot is $60 and the call price is $20, you get 3:1 per call.

Here's an example to illustrate the point

1. Effective stack: 100 BB
2. You get rented on a button. The opponent makes an open-raise 3bb on CO (catoff) villain.
3. You call. The blinds pass.
4. Bank: 7.5 BB pot
5. Flop:
6. Opponent bets 3.5 BB villain
7. Are you: ???

Let's first calculate the pot odds. The pot size is 11 BB (7.5+3.5) and the call price is 3.5 BB. When you divide these two numbers, you get 3.14, so we can round it to 3. You get 3:1 chances per call. You have an internal straight draw - it's 4 outs. Your odds of improving to the straight are 1:5.1, which means you don't have a good chance of a call pot. Now let's change the example a bit and see what happens if you have a two-way straight draw. 

Our hand:	Flop:

This time you have 8 outs (any king or any eight), so the chances of collecting the straight are 1:2.2. Your pot pot odds are 3:1, so this time you have a good pot odds to make a call. 

TIP: If you prefer the probability as a percentage to the odds, you can convert the odds to a percentage by simply adding up the numerator and denominator and then dividing 100% by that amount.

• For example: If you get 4:1 odds, add 4 and 1, then divide 100% by the result (5), and you get 20%. 

Another tip: instead of calculating the pot odds for each hand, it's easier to remember the overall pot odds you'll get in most cases. 

Here are the most common pot odds you can remember:

You can also memorize the required hand equity (that is, how often you expect to win a hand) and compare it to the pot odds you get. 

Equity hands required for different bet bet sizes:

At the very least, you should be mindful of the pot odds (and the required arm's equity) for a bet of half the pot and a bet of full pot, as these are the most common bet sizes you will encounter over and over again.

AN IMPORTANT CAVEAT: the bank's odds simply tell you whether the call is DIRECTLY profitable, meaning it does not take into account other factors such as, for example, implied odds.

It just tells you if it's profitable to call RIGHT NOW. Just because a call makes a direct profit doesn't mean it's THE MOST profitable game. In the above example, the raise can yield more +EV than the call. For these reasons, the pot odds are just one factor to consider when deciding how to play a straight draw. If you don't have a good chance of the pot, it doesn't mean you should fold the cards, and if you do, it doesn't mean you should continue to deal at all costs. The number of outs you have with draw hands is important, but it's not the only factor to consider when deciding whether to draw a draw hand.

3. Factors influencing the way a straight draw is played

Let's take a look at other factors to consider when drawing a straight draw.

Are you targeting nuts with your straight draw

There are two factors that determine the strength of dro combinations: the number of outs you have and whether you are targeting the strongest possible combination, that is, the nuts. If you do not aspire to natsu, even if your draw closes, you risk that your opponent will have an even stronger hand than you. Therefore, you should be especially careful when you rely on non-nut combinations during the game.

Example of a nuts straight draw: 

Our hand:	Flop:

If your draw closes (with a Seven or a Dame), you will have the strongest possible combination. In other words, you have 8 pure outs and you don't have to worry about reverse implied odds. Inverse implied odds are chips that you could potentially lose if your hand closes, but your opponent has an even stronger hand.

Example of a straight draw without soda: 

Our hand:	Flop:

You need a Seven to close the straight, but your opponent may have one, so you won't have the strongest possible combination. You need a Seven to close the straight, but your opponent may have one, so you won't have the strongest possible combination. In the second example, you aim at the so-called back end of the straight. In this case, you should think twice before chasing your straight draw. If you find yourself in a similar situation, first consider the inverse implied odds.

What are the implied odds of your straight draw

The pot odds tell you if you are able to profitably call on a particular street. On the other hand, implied odds tell you how much money you can potentially make on future streets. The pot's odds are accurate, while the implied odds require guesswork. The better the potential odds, the more you should be inclined to play your draw. One notable difference between flush draw and straight draw is that straight draw is harder to detect. 

This means that straight draw's potential odds are usually higher than flush draw's. Even recreational players can easily spot a potential calling flush draw closing, so it often happens that you can't act too straightforward when you finally manage to collect a flush. Straight draw is more hidden, so you are more likely to get paid if you manage to close it.

Let's say, for example: 

With which hand are you more likely to get paid? Obviously, this is the first hand because it will be harder for your opponents to determine your exact hand. Now that we have figured out what to keep in mind when playing the straight draw, let's look at the different game situations and find out which ones give the most +EV.

4. When to reset the straight draw

As mentioned, you can't profitably play every draw as most of them just don't close draw. Even worse, even if you collect your draw, you will have to take into account the inverse implied odds, because your opponent may have a stronger hand. In fact, chasing bad draws is one of the most common mistakes draw lovers make in poker. For these reasons, sometimes it is better to immediately reset your straight draw.

Situations where you should think about folding 

When your straight draw can be dominant: when you aim at the bottom of the straight while some of your outs are spoiled and so on. When you are already “pulling the dead”. Drawing a “dead” card means you can't win a hand even if your draw closes because your opponent already has a stronger hand that you can't beat.

• For example: If there is a pair on the board, your opponent may already have a full-house, or a monotone board, and your opponent may already have a flush.

When you don't have enough pot/implied odds. Sometimes you just don't have enough chance to keep giving profitably. In these situations, the only mathematically correct game is to just give up.

• For example: You have a gutshot, your opponent goes pot bet all-in on the flop, and you get 2:1 chances for a call.

​​Another example of a straight draw draw

Our hand:	Flop:

Playing such a draw is just begging to stack-off on the entire stack. You have a gutshot (which is unlikely to close), one of your outs is spoiled, because the opponent may have a flush, and you have a draw of the lower end of the straight. To top it all off, the board is paired, so several full house combinations are possible.

5. When to call straight draw

As a rule, a call is the last option to think about when drawing a straight draw, because:

1. You rely solely on your outs to win the pot;
2. You allow the opponent to dictate the pace of the draw;
3. Even if you collect your outs, this does not guarantee that your villain will pay you.

Some players make the mistake of colliding with weak draw because they are not strong enough to make a raise, but they also do not want to let go of their hand in the fold. This is often a mistake because they don't complete their draw most of the time, and even if they do, they risk getting only the second best hand. Considering all of the above, there are situations in which it is best to play call with straight draw.

• For example: If you have virtually no fold equity (because the villain is unlikely to fold) and you have a good potential chance.

The usual situation where this scenario is likely is a game against recreational players (phishes). Against fish, you often have very limited fold equity because they have a lot of trouble with the fold. This, in turn, means that your potential chances are great because the hand is more likely to pay off if you manage to collect a straight draw.

Another example of a straight draw draw 

1. Effective Stack Size: 100 BB
2. You are rented out at a CO (cut-off). You open with a 2.5 BB raise.
3. The luzo-passive “fish” has a collision with the SB (small blind).
4. Pot: 6 BB
5. Flop:
6. Fish donk-betit 6 BB.
7. Are you: ???

You just have to call. You get an open and straight draw on the flop, and the opponent makes a dock bet sized in the pot, which is one of the most common obvious signs of recreational players. Donk bet is a bet without a position made against the aggressor of the previous street. Raise here can be an acceptable game, but then there are drawbacks. First, by raising the bet, you force your opponent to dump all his junk, with which he could continue to bluff, and continue only with the hands that beat you. 

If the villain replies with a re-raise, you will have to throw away and thus burn a significant part of the equity. On the other hand, with a barrel you allow your opponent to continue to barrel on future streets with all his junk. If you put your straight together, it probably won't understand anything and you can pick up a huge pot. You can even stack-off with it if it has a hand it can't fold (e.g. Ax hands, strange hands with two pairs and so on). In other words, your potential odds are excellent, it makes no sense to knock out your opponent, and the raise involves additional undesirable risks.

6. When to bet or raise with straight draw

As a rule, the stronger your draw, the more aggressive you should play it. If you make a bet or raise on a flop with a straight draw, you're essentially semi-bluffing. A semi-bluff is a bet or raise when you don't have the best hand, but you can improve it to a stronger hand on future streets. A semi-bluff is usually preferable to a full bluff, in which your hand has no chance of improvement. When you use a semi-bluff, you have an additional equity to lean on if your bet is called. It is usually recommended to play strong draws aggressively because you are just giving yourself more chances to win the pot. You can either immediately win the pot by forcing your opponents to fold their cards, or collect your outs and win an even larger pot on the following streets.

If you passively draw your draws, the only way to win the pot is to collect your outs (which doesn't happen in most cases).

Another reason to quickly play strong draw is that your opponents may not want to pay you if they notice a potential calling draw closure. Of course, with straight draw things are simpler than with flush draw, because straight draw is better hidden, but this should still be remembered. With that in mind, here's when you should usually bet or raise with a straight draw on the flop:

When you are an aggressor on preflop 
If you have a straight draw on the flop, cbet is almost mandatory. Counterbets tend to be profitable, especially when you have a lot of equity to rely on. An exception to this rule may be when the flop is monotonous and you are in a multipot. Greater caution is advised in such situations.

When you are already tied to a pot 
If you've already put most of your stack into the pot, it's usually right to keep the pressure on and be ready to play until the end of your stack. You can determine how attached you are to the pot by using the Stack to Bank Ratio (SPR) for brevity.

As the name suggests, SPR (Stack to Pot Ratio) is the ratio between the sized jar pot and the effective sized stack size.

• For example: If the pot is $20 and the effective stack size is $80, the SPR is 4.

The smaller the SPR, the more tied you are to the pot and you should be more willing to gamble on the rest of your stack. If the SPR is very small (3 or less), you automatically continue with a top pair or better, or with a strong draw (for example, a two-way straight draw or combo street + flush draw).

When you have a lot of outs 
That's not a problem. The more outs you have, the more aggressive you can play because you have an extra hand equity to lean on.

When you have high fold equity 
Big bets or raises with a strong draw have the added edge of maximizing fold equity. Simply put, fold equity refers to the percentage probability that an opponent will fold villain. The more chances that the villain will fold, the more fold equity you will have. By going all-in, you maximize your fold equity. Going all-in just to maximize your fold equity is obviously unwise, but it can be effective if you have a strong draw to count on. 

7. Conclusion

When drawing a draw hand, it is important to base your decision on mathematically sound principles:

1. Internal straight draw (with 4 outs) have a 17%chance of improvement, and open straight draw (with 8 outs) have a 32%chance of improvement from flop to river.
2. You need to compare the pot odds you got with the odds of calling your draw to see if you can play them for a profit.
3. In addition to the pot odds, you also need to consider the implied odds (and vice versa the implied odds), i.e. how much money you can win (or lose) if your straight draw closes. This will depend on the type of opponent you encounter, the texture of the board, the previous action, and so on.

When you take all these factors into account, you will be able to choose the line with the highest +EV. As a rule, the stronger your draw, the more aggressive you can play it. Conversely, if you have a very weak straight draw, sometimes it is better to save money and abandon the pursuit of it altogether. In poker, avoiding unnecessary losses is just as important as maximizing your winnings, so don't chase after any random draw. When in doubt, always consider math first.